An odd vest of a mid-18th-century waistcoat

This unique garment—a waistcoat independent of a coat and breeches (and therefore sometimes called an odd vest)—is often considered the precursor of today’s vest. Its delicate embroidery and fine material added stylishness and status to any European man’s wardrobe. During the 1700–1800s, a refined embroidered and sleeveless waistcoat like this might be paired with a coat and matching knee breeches. (For an example of this, see John Singleton Copley’s 1763 portrait of Nathaniel Allen  in Gallery 4).

Fashionable gentlemen of the time might have owned several waistcoats. Embellished examples like this one were worn in formal settings, such as at a royal court. Embroidered floral motifs were the pinnacle of style in 18th-century Europe during the Age of Enlightenment—a time when men were the peacocks of fashion—prior to the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, which brought machine-made garments and egalitarian dress to the market. 

In addition to its centuries-long tradition of fine ceramicware, China has long been admired for its production of fine silk. This waistcoat is an excellent example of cross-cultural trade, as it uses Chinese silk for the front facings and embroidery. The materials reveal that this garment was probably embroidered in a workshop and made for export; the embroidery is tight and uniform, and comprised of twisted silk threads, which were more durable and easier to produce than the silk floss used in European and North American workshops. The garment was likely embroidered in panels, which would then be exported, and individually cut to fit the client’s specifications by a local tailor or seamstress.

This vest has a curious secret: its buttons are hidden even though they are covered in gilt thread. This is unusual, as decorative buttons were normally exposed, contributing to the display of wealth. As a luxurious garment, it was worn and used long after it was created for the original owner; alterations attest to its later wear by others.

— E. Tory Laitila, Curator of Textiles and Historic Arts of Hawai‘i

Waistcoat, circa 1750
Chinese export
Silk, gilt thread, embroidery
Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Christian H. Aall, 1998 (8927.1)