Adaptive Surfing films + panel

  • Featured_exhib_film_surfff18_adaptive

    Rise & Fall


Adaptive Surfing films + panel


Sunday Jul 15 04:00 PM


Doris Duke Theatre


Museum members: $10.00
General Admission: $12.00


About the Film:

Part of Honolulu Surf Film Festival 2018.

Special thanks to community partner AccessSurf.

Join us for a special screening followed by a panel discussion with local adaptive surfers, Meira Va'aRichard Julian Jr., and Ann Yoshida about overcoming trauma and finding identity in the water through adaptive surfing. 

Rise & Fall
Directed by Elena Mannocci. 2018. Italy. 5 min. Italian with English subtitles.
Surfing and being in the ocean has always been a big part of Massimiliano Mattei's life. When an accident suddenly derails his physical abilities, Massimiliano does not let it stop him from doing what he enjoys most.

Directed by Valère Caneri. 2017. France. 20 min. French with English subtitles.
Ismaël Guilliorit, Laurent Marouf, Benoît Moreau, and Eric Dargent, accompanied by coach Manu Portet, cameraman Valère Caneri, photographer Bastien Bonnarme, and emergency physician Thibaud Viard (safety first!) share an unprecedented experience on the north Mentawai, an idyllic place with perfect waves.

Adapt Your Mind
Directed by Ana Catarina & Thiago Theo. 2017. Hawaiʻi. 14 min.
This film brings surf as a social inclusion tool and transforming agent for the characters win their limits and overcome adversity of life. The sea acts like an element of equality and in the connection between body, mind, self knowledge, and direct contact of man with nature.

Meira Va’a is a former Paralympian (2004 Athens Greece Summer Games), an adaptive canoe paddler, two-time states adaptive waveski champ, and second place in Womens waveski division at ISA Worlds. She is also a mother to two wonderful children. "Life is like the ocean, we are moving without end. Nothing stays with us. What remains is just memories of the ones that touched us as waves."

Richard Julian, Jr. grew up on O'ahu, surfing in Waikiki with his father and friends. He is the co-founder of AccessSurf Hawaii and has assisted adaptive surfing and water programs around the world to assist individuals with disabilities. Since his injury at age 14 he has also enjoyed other adaptive sports programs such as professional wheelchair tennis, canoe paddling, and basketball. Richard is a positive motivator for the new generation of adaptive athletes to push their limits.

Ann Yoshida: "The love of activities in nature, especially water sports, is in my culture as a Hawaiian. At a young age my identity was shaped as a surfer as I was taught a respect and love for the ocean from my grandma, mother, father, and brothers. But after sustaining a spinal cord injury, I thought living as an athlete was forever out of my reach. The most transformative experience was in 2006, when Richard Julian and Mark Marble—friends and co-founders of AccesSurf Hawaii—supported me, and so many others, to get into adaptive surfing. And like a wipeout from a wave, I surfaced as a surfer and a water woman again. As the first female competitive adaptive surfer, I did all I could to develop physically, mentally and socially so I could support the growth of the sport in the world. It was also through surfing that I was introduced to paddling all crafts. In 2016 I became world champion in the v-1 outrigger canoe and represented the United States as the first Hawaiian k-1 Paralympian. In 2017, I had the opportunity to return to my home on Oahu as a doctor of Occupational Therapy, a Paralympian, Va’a World Champion, and researcher in adaptive surfing. And of course in 2017, I became the first female adaptive surfing world champion at the Stance ISA World Adaptive Surfing Championships, where they held women's championship events for the first time. And I developed the Hawaii Adaptive Surfing championship classification system. There is nothing like the empowerment and purpose gained from participating in a culturally-sanctioned sport such as surfing and regaining my identity and community once again. Like a friend said, 'when dreams become reality, they take flight' and I am enjoying the view."

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