The art of jewelry

How Lauren Hana Chai and Crystal DeRosier transformed ‘The Five Senses’ into wearable creations

The HoMA Shop is known for its contemporary jewelry finds. Now artist Lauren Hana Chai and self-taught metalsmith Crystal DeRosier have teamed up to create a collection that turns the exhibition Lauren Hana Chai: The Five Senses into wearable art. Sterling silver studs, rings, pendants and earrings take their cue from works in the show, the result of a fruitful collaboration.

Designing women

The two artists met when DeRosier, looking to revive her inner artist during COVID-19, took part in a watercolor class taught by Chai and painter Nathaniel Evans. Since their first encounter, they’ve discussed the idea of working together on a project. The opportunity to bring that idea to life came with the arrival of The Five Senses at HoMA.

They began the design process with a discussion of motifs that captured the essence of The Five Senses. “Of course, her now infamous Korean peaches were the immediate thing that sprang to mind,” says DeRosier, who creates striking jewelry as Crystal Rose Design.

Now that the artists had Chai’s signature fruits in mind, it was time to look for the right stones—the right pink stones. After exploring many options, one stood out: the teardrop-shaped rhodochrosite. Not only did it have a bold rose hue that aligned with the vibrant palette of Chai’s paintings, but it “had such interesting variations in the mineral layers making up the gem,” says DeRosier.

Once they sourced the stones, the duo sketched ideas for the jewelry collection. “We created some literal peach designs with leaves and pink peaches with the teardrop rhodochrosite,” DeRosier says, “but also some designs inspired by the vibe and mood of the show using the stones.” As they devised jewelry pieces together that day, Chai tried her hand at metalsmithing, learning how to create a sterling silver ring. “She was, not surprisingly, a natural!” says DeRosier.

Transformed by adversity

DeRosier has an art degree and has worked in multiple mediums while also building a career as a marketing professional. Her creative journey has been challenging—in 2014 she was diagnosed with thoracic outlet syndrome, which impacted her right arm and hand, her most essential art tools. After multiple surgeries and major life changes, she moved from California to Hawai‘i to start a new chapter.

As she healed, she slowly rekindled her connection with art making, from ceramics to drawing and painting. A chance encounter with a sculptor and his daughter led her to discover metalsmithing, which sparked a deep passion within her.

Just as she started her jewelry-making career, though, she experienced a hip injury and was diagnosed with hip dysplasia. After major corrective surgery followed by enduring months of physical therapy, DeRosier returned to metalsmithing with renewed determination. Being bedridden and using a walker for months pushed her imagination to new heights, and her artworks reflected themes of transformation.

DeRosier spends eight to twelve hours carefully crafting each piece. Hand sawing, soldering, filing, sanding, polishing, setting and burnishing—these steps go into making her one-of-a-kind wearable art. “I really enjoy putting my energy and mana into each piece this way because it feels special and cared for, and somehow I feel the wearer will connect with that.”

Crystal’s tips on jewelry care:

• Avoid letting lotions, perfumes and beauty products come into contact with your jewelry.
• Remove jewelry before showering and washing your hands.
• Stay clear of harsh chemicals and cleaning products while wearing your jewelry. They can damage the stones and the metal.
• Sterling silver naturally tarnishes over time due to air exposure. Using a polish cloth brings the luster back, but storing the jewelry in a sealed bag or box minimizes how often this occurs.